Radiator Replacement

Difficulty: 3/10 — very DIY-friendly

The L300 is a 1980s design — everything’s accessible and there’s no complex electronics in the way. Experienced Delica owners consistently describe this as a straightforward afternoon job.

Steps

1. Drain coolant via the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator.
2. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses.
3. Disconnect the overflow/expansion bottle hose.
4. Remove the fan shroud — start by removing the fans from the shroud, which then unbolts from the radiator tanks.
5. Lift out the radiator. It sits on rubber isolator bushings at the bottom — rock it side to side to free it.
6. Reverse the steps to install.

The extra step for automatic transmission (4FA/T)

Two ATF cooler lines run into one of the radiator tanks. Pinch or plug these before disconnecting — have rags ready and a container underneath. This is the messiest part of the job. It adds maybe 20 minutes but isn’t mechanically difficult.

Gotchas

• The lower radiator hose has an angled/elbow fitting, not a straight connection — note its orientation before pulling it so you don’t guess wrong on reinstall.
• Core thickness matters: the diesel JDM Delica radiator core should be at least 38 mm thick. Double-check any replacement before it arrives — some listed “compatible” radiators run thinner.
• 30+ year old hoses and clamps may be corroded or brittle. Worth having new upper and lower hoses on hand (MB356382 and MB356383) to replace while you’re in there rather than fighting the old ones back on.

Time budget

Realistically 2–3 hours for a first attempt, including draining, bleeding the cooling system afterwards, and cleaning up the inevitable ATF drips.

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Community write-up, cross-checked against Delica Garage part listings and specs. Not sourced from the factory manual — treat core-thickness and hose part numbers as a starting point to verify against your specific build, not a guarantee.